L E A T H E R
It was light vs dark this season for leather. Buttery Soft quilted leather mixed with Patent was seen at Burberry, starting with tame Vespa, mixing with metallics and nudes and ending with full on Harley Davidson studded biker, while Balmain in typical form toughened up with studs and ripped denim shorts. Hermès went Dressage, sending models down the runway in riding boots and leather harnesses (some worn as belts) and complete with whips, gloves and hat. Leather corsets and shorts also featured. Miu Miu displayed glam-rock oversized Bolero jackets in various colours of metallic and bold tones, while a softer feel was seen at Paul & Joe, where cropped brown leather jackets were teamed with flirty chiffon, tied off with a Seventies thin belt- probably my favourite- and floral cowboy boots. Chloé carried on the dreamy Seventies theme, teaming structured backless leather vests with weightless flowing pleated skirts in nude tones.
Other themes seen here: Animal (equestrian), Seventies.
T A N G E R I N E
Bright and bold, Juicy Citrine colours were seen in abundance, both in Print and Colour Blocking- with Diane Von Furstenberg complementing an orange low cut shirt with a purple skirt. Stella McCartney cut a minimalist shape but tied billow sleeves, print and tangerine all in one with a fruity printed high neck dress. Hermès paired a jersey like orange mini dress with leather corset and harness belt, not forgetting a matching Hermès bag and Christopher Kane mixed masculine with print in a tangerine argyle golf tank top and midi printed skirt with neon shoes.
Other themes seen here: Seventies, Neon, Print, Leather, Shirty, Billow Sleeves, Tassels, Animal (equestrian), Colour Blocking.
Looking at this trend, if I could live through any decade it would be this one. Dresses were silk and pleated, Jewelled Miu Miu and Pastel Christopher Kane going for midi length while Stella McCartney opted for ankle, slitting to the thigh with a neutral palette. Salvatore Ferragamo and Paul & Joe showed jump-suits, both halter necks, both belted in skinny leather with Paul & Joe in print with a tasselled bag and Salvatore Ferragamo finishing the look with head scarves- making me think of Morocco. Look out for pleats, skinny belts and halter necks this season.
Other themes seen here: Tassels, Print, Pastels, Billow Sleeves, Midi length, Maxi length.
S T R U C T U R E D S L E E V E S
Billowed sleeves cropped up everywhere, even a version in Chanel's signature tweed featured. Chloé paired funnel necked tops with short structured sleeves for a striking silhouette, while Valentino kept it feminine with a high round neck, sweet Seventies frills and cinched in with a skinny belt. Viktor & Rolf ran with all over print and voluminous sleeves which tightened at the forearm. Prada was V-necked and oversized in bold colour block, almost resembling a surgeon, but way chicer. I liked. Little sister Miu Miu was metallic and oversized, with Matador tasselled silk skirts.
Other themes seen here: Colour blocking, Equestrian (Matador), Print, Seventies, Metallic, Shirty.
S H I R T Y
The white shirt is the new LBD. Paul & Joe had shirt dresses, tied off with metallic wide tasselled belts and Seventies cowboy boots. Viktor & Rolf devoted their whole show to the shirt, with every look collared and buttoned. Androgynous and tailored, Stella McCartney showed sleeveless collared white shirt/waistcoat combinations while Alexander McQueen was more derelicte with frayed shirts and tails. Hermès continued the trend with white shirts slashed down the décolletage and sleeves artfully ruched. Valentino again struck a more feminine feel with sweet bowed long sleeved dresses and Seventies frills.
Other themes seen here: Tassels, midi length, metallics, masculine.
O T H E R T R E N D S
Stripes make a return this season, but instead of Breton, lines were brighter and bolder. Jutya Watnabe had a mix of black and white jailbird thick stripes and navy/white sailor, the latter teamed with nautical silk prints with ships wheels and anchors. Prada had neon and black, and even themed their food around it with the bread in their sandwiches dyed green and pink to match their stripes- now that's fashion food. Fendi featured diagonal ice cream stripes of orange and blue leather.
While it's customary to see the occasional tassel on a bag or loafer, 2011 makes the decoration a statement. Bright and long, you can't miss these ones. Diane Von Furstenberg trailed them from bags, Paul & Joe used them as ties. Louis Vuitton even made a dress completely out of diamanté tassels and fringing.
Look out for animal too, whether it be in print or embellishment (Louis Vuitton had both.) Prada was quirky with banana prints and monkeys drawn with neon piping. Alexander McQueen was swanlike with feathers, reminiscent of Autumn/Winter 2010's gold bird of prey piece. Miu Miu revered the Matador with bolero jackets and Hermès harnessed equestrian with leather reins and whips.
Who's excited for Spring then?!